Crossing the strait of Magellan. We had a much easier time than Ferdinand, though I did get a bit of salt spray on my boots.
When Patagonia puts up a wind warning you had better take defensive measures!
One of the many dolphins that followed our ferry across the Strait of Magellan.Ushuaia to Cerro Sombrero – 360 miles, Cerro Sombrero to Comodoro Rivadavia - 520 miles
This was our first trip north since we began five months ago. It marks the beginning of the end. We’ve about 2000 miles to Buenos Aires to put the bikes on a boat and return home. From Cerro Sombrero to Comodoro Rivadavia yesterday was one of the most physically demanding of the trip. Not only was it over 500 miles but it was cold and WINDY too. I've got the cold solved. My heated jacket keeps me comfortable and a variety of ski-type neck gators keeps the cold from getting in. Th only force that rattles us is the Patagonian wind. Literally hundreds of times today I had to ride leaned over from 5 to 20 degrees just to ride in a straight line. That wouldn't be too hard if it was a constant wind velocity. But it wasn't. The gusts could come at any time and the mainwind force varied from moment to moment. Sometimes you could guess when the wind would change by the proximity of a mountain, gorge or the sea. But you were never sure. The worst and scariest part was when leaning over 20 degrees toward the centerline to offset a strong wind from the left, while timing the approach of a semi coming at you doing 75 mph. That 75 plus your own 70 mph provides a blast of tremendous force at the instant we pass. The only strategy that seems to work is to grip the handlebars as tight as possible,lay your chest on the tank and lean into the blast of air for a millisecond, then come back quickly to avoid entering the trucks lane and slamming into whatever is behind it. A tricky, nerve racking operation. I was completely spent when I finally reached my hotel.
Cerro Sombrero is the only place we stay in a hotel again. We were here on the way down. The road options are reduced to one because you must catch the ferry across the Straits of Magellan. The great man himself discovered this passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific in 1520 while looking for a route to the riches of the Spice Islands.
This strait separates the continent of South America from the large island of Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire). The vast importance of this discovery was known only later. Ferdinand Magellan’s enduring fame came after his death.
In this passage to the Pacific live four species of dolphin that were first observed scientifically by Charles Darwin on his maiden voyage to sea. He shipped out aboard the Beagle under Captain Robert FitzRoy. FitzRoy was the best sailor and navigator of his time. His genius for sailing was offset by a mental imbalance that caused him problems his entire life, until the evening he said goodnight to his wife and daughters and then slit his throat quietly in the bathroom.
The entire vast island of Tierra del Fuego is full of remarkable characters doing things that made history; Magellan, FitzRoy, Drake, Darwin.
The natives here were wiped out due to contact with white men. The Yahgan people were wild, naked, canoe people. They had no permanent homes, written language, leaders, or crops. See photos.
This was our first trip north since we began five months ago. It marks the beginning of the end. We’ve about 2000 miles to Buenos Aires to put the bikes on a boat and return home. From Cerro Sombrero to Comodoro Rivadavia yesterday was one of the most physically demanding of the trip. Not only was it over 500 miles but it was cold and WINDY too. I've got the cold solved. My heated jacket keeps me comfortable and a variety of ski-type neck gators keeps the cold from getting in. Th only force that rattles us is the Patagonian wind. Literally hundreds of times today I had to ride leaned over from 5 to 20 degrees just to ride in a straight line. That wouldn't be too hard if it was a constant wind velocity. But it wasn't. The gusts could come at any time and the mainwind force varied from moment to moment. Sometimes you could guess when the wind would change by the proximity of a mountain, gorge or the sea. But you were never sure. The worst and scariest part was when leaning over 20 degrees toward the centerline to offset a strong wind from the left, while timing the approach of a semi coming at you doing 75 mph. That 75 plus your own 70 mph provides a blast of tremendous force at the instant we pass. The only strategy that seems to work is to grip the handlebars as tight as possible,lay your chest on the tank and lean into the blast of air for a millisecond, then come back quickly to avoid entering the trucks lane and slamming into whatever is behind it. A tricky, nerve racking operation. I was completely spent when I finally reached my hotel.
Cerro Sombrero is the only place we stay in a hotel again. We were here on the way down. The road options are reduced to one because you must catch the ferry across the Straits of Magellan. The great man himself discovered this passage from the Atlantic to the Pacific in 1520 while looking for a route to the riches of the Spice Islands.
This strait separates the continent of South America from the large island of Tierra del Fuego (Land of Fire). The vast importance of this discovery was known only later. Ferdinand Magellan’s enduring fame came after his death.
In this passage to the Pacific live four species of dolphin that were first observed scientifically by Charles Darwin on his maiden voyage to sea. He shipped out aboard the Beagle under Captain Robert FitzRoy. FitzRoy was the best sailor and navigator of his time. His genius for sailing was offset by a mental imbalance that caused him problems his entire life, until the evening he said goodnight to his wife and daughters and then slit his throat quietly in the bathroom.
The entire vast island of Tierra del Fuego is full of remarkable characters doing things that made history; Magellan, FitzRoy, Drake, Darwin.
The natives here were wiped out due to contact with white men. The Yahgan people were wild, naked, canoe people. They had no permanent homes, written language, leaders, or crops. See photos.
[During the 50 mile trip I got the strange notion that a vacuna tail would make a great souvenir. When I came across a recently road-killed specimen i stopped and took off his tail with my Leatherman knife. It seemed to be a recent kill but it smelled terribly. I tied it to my bike and kept riding. At the hotel I smuggled it in and tried to clean it. It had a large bloddy bone down the middle that was rotting and stunk too. I filled the bidet with soapy water and tried to salvage as much as I could. Once the rotten parts were removed I was left with a clump of dirty fur. I left it in a glass of water and shampoo outside my window. I now must go upstairs and see if there is enough to smuggle back home.]
1 comment:
Dad, i love the Vacuna tail idea, such a Jones boy classic. I sent the money to the man finally, im sorry it took so long, i had a lot on my plate and it slipped my mind. cant wait to see you.
Eddie
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